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16.02.2009-18.02.2009
Sitting yourself parapet and watches. Siabru, though it is ordinary village, it seems to me after returning from a hot noisy metropolis. Az do not want to think what will be in Kathmandu.
Sitting and waiting.
After some time coming Buchung - boy, whom we met two weeks ago. The first thing he does is asks where Zuza. Then he adds that for a time when we (Zuza) was not, he was very sad and still miss. She tells him that should come soon, because we agreed to this evening in Siabru. Hearing this, Buchung disappears into the house and after about half an hour goes in the shirt, fancy denim jacket, nazelowanymi hair.
sit and wait.
sit and wait.
Finally Buchung says: "Come to my aunt's house." Well, let's go. House consists of a large kitchen, where he sleeps and Buchung room where sleeping aunt. The boy leaves me and goes to settle your case any.
house in the middle looks like this (then it turned out that this is the most modern house in the village):
A housewife is proud of this house;)
*
Buchung When coming back, we go to the lookout, look out Zuza and Wojtek. I thought that we leave behind the village, but not ... boy uphill slide, slide, and we stop just high on a cliff overlooking the path on both sides of the valley. Needless to say, as it is difficult to keep up with the Tibetan Longing ... We look forward to the collapse of the dark night, but nobody comes.
*
And then ... go to English classes. Buchung occurs in the role of the teacher. Today, two young women learning the alphabet. After some time I also became a teacher - I manage to move in to the alphabet letter K, which had escaped somewhere boyfriend and girlfriend to learn the pronunciation of F (very slinogenna point for locals) and the difference between I and Y. Normally, I feel like Silaczka Zeromskiego;)
*
Buchung next day with his friend, go up the valley and wait for AWEU Wojtek. If they do not meet, the next day I go, as we will have to come back back to Kangyen Gompa.
*
Meanwhile, the idea of \u200b\u200bstaying alone and on a reconnaissance of the village. Interesting fact: lived here for at most of the 500 people, and are very clearly separated neighborhoods. The top level is called Bazaar - the most lively part with hotels, shops, etc. Below are the clerks of the district hospital, home, culture, national park guard outpost and the district "working" - with the small cottage and the poor men who just sit and talk about the pile, or (in the bazaar all walking around with jakiejsc their robot.) Here is also a "point loading" porters. Well, on the other side of the river is our neighborhood, "Tibetan". When I returned here after a walk, I felt like home - on the other side of the river, people in general, or you do not see, or want something from you, but here everyone friendships smiles in greeting. Apparently nothing, a man feels quite differently. Actually
The term "Tibet" is very vague. Indeed, most residents are descendants of refugees from Tibet, but the culture and language are so mingled with the locals, with the duly constituted already a new quality. For example, lead discussions among themselves using words in a sentence of Tibetan and Nepalese tamanskich (Tamangowie this tribe, which originally inhabited the area).
* ide the afternoon on a rock to wait for the boys and AWEU and Wojtek. After about 2 hours appear only guys. We go home a little gloomily. I hope he just decided to strike again has jeszczze Ganja La and nothing serious happened.
And at home ... My aunt is handing me a folded piece of paper glued slices. It turns out that a porter brought a letter from Zuza - writes with Wojtek ill for longer than anyone had expected, but that tomorrow will be in Siabru.
*
Then we go home Dolma. For the first time become absorbed in the interior of a true multi-generational home with a yard Nepalese, etc. We sit on the floor in a small cell in which it is a completely equipped kitchen - ie is a small clay stove and the walls are shelves with plates, jars, etc. It is difficult to describe
why he feels among those people as well (for now, I mean aunts house and Dolma). Maybe a bit of contrast - not yet had to deal mainly with local or on a client-service provider, or as a curiosity in Europe and a free help for learning (I will experience again the next day walking around Siabru). And here I am treated like a guest of course, everyone seems very happy with my presence, but would treat me very naturally, a bit like a family member. In addition to this there are just fantastic people - quiet and respectful to each other, and it is an extremely cheerful (such comprehensive reflection - Nepalese are laughing are the most people I have met and it is not just my opinion).
After some time, all gathered in the kitchen joins husband Dolma - a local lama. Of course, the make friends drink a rakszi. The first time I after the DO NOT REMOVE - Dolma's knows the robot:)
Dolma, her husband and Buchung
*
A rakszi getting this: sauté the butter in a frying pan in August which, with the face witch thrown in there a handful of dried herbs, and then poured moonshine. While the tea is getting so: put into a tube from which the butter (now I know what serves the tube) and tamped pestle. Then in August dosypuje salt, pouring tea with milk and kills again. Pour tea and tamped. Until it gets a single drink. Slona tea is quite a strange experience, but it takes her to admit that it is nieswykle filling. Tea with milk is getting so: the pot poured tea, sugar, pour water and milk and cook everything together. Exits 100 times better than the Polish "Bavarian."
*
the way back Buchung for half the money that my aunt gave him, he buys two cigarettes. Smoke on the stone wall, talking about marriage, love, etc. The conversation is not very deep (the boy is only 20 years old, and later how to convince sometimes behaves as if he had 15), but still taking into account cultural differences, the huge language barrier and the fact that we know from yesterday is unusual conversation.
So we smoke, we talk, then go into the kitchen, throw a sweatshirt on a chair, detachable straps, take off the pants, loads of blankets and fall asleep after 30 seconds. I love such simple life:)
* Next day passes for the preparation of cakes on Losar, or Tibetan New Year. Whole family gathers in August in one of the houses and from dawn to dusk August wyrabianiu captures and baking. And I whole day kneading and baking with them, and already totally do not feel like a tourist, but a family member (of course, without exaggeration, but really more so I feel;).
dozen men and boys (and 2 teenagers) sit on the floor, first knead the dough in large bowls, then takes on the knee boards and flake boards on these long, thin forms of struggle and of them delicately curled "Szira" or "solma. Must be wrapped by konretnego pattern without any exceptions (I still improve), though then and so it makes no matter, because to eat right away to make it breaks into many small pieces.
At this time women enter the tea, rakszi (Water only two oldest guys and me - if I have alcoholism written all over his face, or what?), Dinner, lunch, then another, then again, tea, and so again rakszi over and over.
A year around the countless kids and still want them to do their pictures.
most kiczowato-posed picture of the world:) Well, they had on hand only a young goat. Crop not think what I had to carry, if just for them, how ocielily (ojaczyly?):)
* There is a very cheerful atmosphere. Tibetans Tibetans as (at least Nepalese) still joking banter August, sing, throw pieces of dough in August - a word I'm really happy that the coming Christmas.
But as in Tibet (at least in Nepali), joy intermingled with sadness. And without any warning signs. Every moment one passes smoothly into the second, or rather exist in parallel.
Dolma loud laughs. After a while the laughter turns into a cough. Violent, heavy, lousy cough. Buchung says she has asthma, and rarely become when I am on medication. Dolma comes with a grimace of pain on the outside and it was only there in August calms coughing. He comes back laughing and commenting joke, which I previously laugh.
Some time after talking with Uncle (rumored to be nastarsza person in the village and is only 58 years). Przeslodka uncle is a person speaks almost no English, but it has wzystko written on his face. He talks merrily (Buchung translators) of cows and their wypasaniu daughter, who lives in Germany. Suddenly they begin to collect Uncle tears in his eyes and normally begins to cry ... Buchung explains to me that he remembered his wife, who died a few months earlier. Losar will be the first without her. My uncle says that now he also wants to die. He shows me an altar of her photos. I shoot these pictures, which is deemed as a commitment to respect deceased ...
Later, talking with his older brother Buchung. Asks me about Poland, joking that he did not take with me to Warsaw. We talk so I casually (there is a of two people after Tibetan side of the river, which mastered communicative English) and I do not know when the conversation turns into the gloomy tale of utter lack of prospects for the robot and its surroundings Siabru about how I once worked in a gruesome conditions on board fishing vessels are any Malaysian ... Then I just laughed and threw a joke and went back to the filming of the dough.
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